Soul Surfing is what it used to be called. Since Endless Summer II, it's being called that all over again. People are rediscovering the serenity of a longboard, sailing before waves without the difficulty of manhandling a Gun.

When I lived in Southern Cal, this was an essential aspect for me. It still is. I relive the memories, the smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves gently lapping at my board, the sensation of saltwater trickling down my back as it crept into my wetsuit, and the overall feeling of peacefulness at just being there in the ocean, on the waves...

When I return from the Midwest, it won't be for the traffic, or the energy,
the celebrities, clublife, or any of that. I'll be going back to the ocean,
where the largest part of me remains. I hear it calling to me now.

My non-surfer friends think it's a joke. They think of "Surf's
up, DUDE," and "Gnarly!" and "Cowabunga," having no
comprehension of the purity of simply Be-ing that
Watermen bask in daily. I've put this section
in my page, hoping to share some part of
what surfing and the ocean are for me.


Enjoy. Peace.

John Taylor